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Massive, bouncy blow-dries and boho texture might have dominated current seasons, however backstage at London Style Week autumn/winter 2026, a sleeker nod to the noughties took management.
Throughout a number of reveals, hair was pressed and with a exactly sharp reduce signalling a decisive return to pin-straight kinds.
The shift was most putting at Chet Lo, the place lead stylist and world artistic advocate for Genuine Magnificence Idea Anna Cofone created what she described as “glass straight” hair to enhance the designer’s sculptural, high-impact silhouettes.
Backstage, groups labored methodically, sectioning hair with surgical precision. Positive-tooth combs carved out razor-sharp centre partings whereas straighteners glided over every panel till it mirrored the sunshine. The end was like liquid – no bend, no fluff, no extra motion.
“The inspiration for the look is pulling from south-east Asian id, drawing from the long-lasting head-dresses of the Peking opera,” Cofone defined to the Press Affiliation. “In opera they use ostrich feathers as an extension of the efficiency […] so we wished to deliver that into the hair. You’ll see these lovely moments the place they’ve ostrich feathers and we wished to do it in a easy fashionable method – the hair is glass straight.”
The cultural reference was translated via sculptural feather placements that prolonged horizontally from the top, virtually like aerodynamic wings. Feathers have additionally been a dominant development on the runway in designer’s collections.
What made the look really feel fashionable slightly than overly theatrical was the stainless base: ultra-flat, mirror-like strands tucked tightly behind the ears or falling bluntly in opposition to the jawline. The shine was amplified with ending sprays, giving the hair an virtually vinyl sheen beneath the lights.
Cofone believes the return of straight hair displays a broader magnificence development. “I believe we’ll see [straight hair] rather a lot this coming season as we’ve had plenty of massive hair and plenty of motion, texture so I really like the concept of glass straight coming again in,” she mentioned.
After seasons of soppy waves, pure curls and voluminous eighties blow-dries, autumn/winter 2026 suggests a swing again in direction of construction.
The noughties reference of early flat-iron tradition and poker-straight lengths has been refined into one thing extra architectural.
On the runway, the impact was dramatic. Centre-parted bobs had been reduce blunt and extreme, their symmetry emphasised by the feathers piercing outward from behind the ears. The hyper-sleek texture contrasted sharply with Chet Lo’s spiked knitwear and sheer layers, creating pressure between softness and rigidity.
Precision additionally outlined Paul Costelloe’s autumn/winter 2026 present. Whereas Chet Lo’s interpretation of straight hair was extra graphic and directional, Costelloe’s was managed and classical.
Toni and Man world artistic director Cos Sakkas led the hair crew in crafting a glance that mirrored the Irish designer’s highly effective tailoring. Hair was smoothed to a high-shine end earlier than being drawn right into a low, sculpted chignon on the nape.
The centre parting was crisp, reinforcing the sharp strains of Costelloe’s suiting. Right here, shine was once more key. Below backstage lights, the hair appeared virtually lacquered – a managed floor that complemented the gathering’s structured coats and tailor-made silhouettes.
Costelloe’s take leaned in direction of energy dressing whereas Brazilian-born designer Karoline Vitto’s autumn/winter 2026 runway demonstrated how glossy hair also can body sensuality.
On Vitto’s runway, fashions wore slicked-back kinds that hugged the scalp. The end was clear, emphasising bone construction and permitting the model’s signature cut-outs and draped silhouettes to take centre stage.
The shine mirrored the fluidity of the materials, reinforcing the body-conscious nature of the designs.
Earlier seasons have celebrated individuality via pure motion and ethereal quantity, resembling Chloe’s seminal autumn/winter 2024 present that kicked off the bohemian-wave hair development.
However hair is now not competing with clothes; as an alternative, it’s sharpening it. The severity of a centre half, the gloss of flattened strands, the self-discipline of a low bun are all particulars elevate slightly than overwhelm a glance.
It’s unsurprising that this follows the 20-year development cycle. The early 2000s obsession with straighteners is being reimagined via a high-fashion lens.
Shine, specifically, is rising because the defining magnificence development. First we had glass pores and skin, now we’ve got glass hair. Whether or not worn unfastened and blade-straight like at Chet Lo, coiled right into a managed chignon at Paul Costelloe or slicked neatly again at Karoline Vitto, the unifying issue is gloss.
London Style Week’s backstage magnificence scene made one factor clear this season: the period of glass, straight hair is formally again.
